The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA: A Whole Other Kind of Oregon Wine Country Than You Likely Know

The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA: A Whole Other Kind of Oregon Wine Country Than You Likely Know

… Only 5.9 Square Miles, 57 Vineyards, and a Depth of 100 Feet of Rocks

I’ll admit, uniqueness in wine regions anywhere in the world can be subjective. However, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA (American Viticultural Area) is perhaps the most distinct and geologically unique AVA in Oregon. Final TTB approval of this new Oregon AVA of 5.9 square mile (3767 acre) within Walla Walla Valley occurred in February 2015.

The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA, or simply called “The Rocks” or “The Rocks District” for short, is a sub-appellation of the large two state Walla Walla Valley AVA located in northeastern Oregon and Washington state. It has a very singular terroir that is completely different from the rest of Oregon’s wine country.

So, What Makes Oregon’s “Rocks District” So Different?  

Firstly, it’s what people typically call its rocky “Cobblestone Soil”- This is in contrast to the volcanic and marine sedimentary soils found in the Willamette Valley. The Rocks District is comprised of an ancient riverbed packed with smooth, dark basalt cobblestones. In some vineyards in the AVA, these stones go down hundreds of feet into the ground

Secondly, the large cobbelstone rocks give this region what has been called a “Radiator Effect”. The dark-colored stones absorb the Sun’s heat during the day and then radiate this heat up to the vines and grape clusters during night. This effect helps push ripening and concentrates aromas and flavors in the grapes.

Thirdly, The Rocks District is a different kind of Oregon wine country. The Pinot growing regions of Western Oregon like the Willamette Valley receive 2 to 3 times the annual rainfall than common in the more arid Rocks District. Furthermore, the areas around Willamette are known for cool-climate winegrowing characterized by highs in the upper 70s to low 80s and an accumulation of 2,285 growing degree days during the growing season. Whereas, The Rocks District is a much warmer region totaling over 2,900 growing degrees days and days commonly in the 90s to sometimes 100s.

Finally, as a result of these effects, The Rocks District has focused on a completely different wine grape from Oregon’s famous for Pinot Noir… It’s Syrah that tends to draw associations with the characteristics of Syrah grown in the Northern Rhône valley.

What makes The Rocks Syrah and Others Standout?

Tasted by wine professionals and enthusiasts, the wines have been noted to have savory, earthy and minerally notes superimposed and sometimes coming up and over the fruit notes. This earthiness is often referred to as “The Rocks Syrah Funk”. As you might also suspect with Syrah leading the way you can find Grenache, Mourvèdre, Viognier and Rhone-style blends here, as well.

Want to Find The Rocks District and Its Wines? You Might Have to Look Hard

Recall, it is only 5.9 square mile (3767 acre) – see the little red blob in above map. This is it and it has, in the latest count I can find, 57 vineyards and estate winery properties located between the city of Milton-Freewater, OR and the Oregon-Washington border. However, some wine producers have estate vineyards in The Rocks District located in Oregon while operating tasting rooms in nearby Walla Walla, WA. There is little restriction for wineries in other parts of Oregon to use The Rocks District appellation on their wine labels, but not those in Washington.

Please keep in mind that The Rocks District lies only in the state of Oregon. This has implications for wines produced in Oregon and Washington. Federal rules require wines to be fully finished in the state in which the AVA is located. Therefore, only Oregon wineries are permitted to use “The Rocks District” appellation on their labels. Also, for Oregon’s wineries, 85% of this AVA’s fruit must be used in the wine, if this appellation is displayed on the labels.

Noteable Wine Producers in The Rocks

Cayuse Vineyards – Cayuse is the pioneer that put this rocky terroir on the map. All of Cayuse Vineyards estate vineyards are located directly within The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA. Their estate Syrahs are world-famous and have allocation cult-wine status that showcase “The Rocks” character.

Interestingly, the Frenchman Christophe Baron of Cayuse Vineyards who discovered the region now known as The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater will likely never put the new AVA on his label. He thinks that the TTB rules don’t make sense. His issues come from his feelings on the AVA’s boundaries don’t match the area’s terroir, terminology (i.e. use of the word ‘Rocks’), and he feels that wineries using the AVA should be limited to those actually inside the AVA. From what I understand, these were issues in 2015 and are still issues today.

Rotie Cellars – This winery uses the Phelps clone Syrah for the best representation of the Syrah from this district. It’s aged in large, medium-toasted French oak barrels. The result is wines layered with aromas of espresso, combined with savory notes of cured meats and olive showcasing silky tannins and a signature Syrah funk.

Cimento Wines – One of the most celebrated wines in The Rocks District is their estate Syrah. It has received wide ranging acclaim for its intensely aromatic and deeply evocative characteristics bringing olive, earth, and smoked meat notes, interwoven with notes of flowers, white pepper, and herbs. This Syrah embodies the complexity of wines possible from The Rocks District and also brings the potential for long term bottle aging.

Delmas Wines – Here every wine Delmas makes begins in their SJR Vineyard in The Rocks District. Each release reflects the character of the vintage, the variety, the site and the family that runs the operation. Their Estate Syrah is co-fermented with a touch of Viognier, adding a purple hue and beautiful floral notes to a deep, savory essence of truffle, pepper, and grilled meat.

First Time Tasting Wines from The Rocks District?

If you are trying these wines for the first time, prepare your palate for a style completely distinct from the California or West Coast Oregon wines. Expect dominant minerally notes of crushed wet stones, tobacco leaf, smoked charcuterie, olive tapenade and more, that come with great acidity and pleasing tannins.

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The Rocks District might be a small AVA, but it is not the smallest in the USA. Can you tell me what AVA has the notoriety as the smallest?